Garage Door Basics
since I was born; my daddy was in the door business. So, that
makes 50+ years in this business. My active time at Strafford Door
Company is approaching 25+ years.
I know that the police have a blue wall, the medical profession is loath
to criticize other Drs. and of course the education system has a
pretty good system of tenure. Unions have grievance procedures and
the Better Business Bureau does good work. Still and all, I gotta
stand up and start educating consumers on how their doors should
work. Cause I can't believe the shitty, lousy, outright crooked service
being foisted on the public today.
Let us start with basics - say you are buying a new garage door.
When the door is installed, it should be plumb and square. Whether
the door opening is square or not, the door should be installed plumb
and square. This means that the door must be straight up and down.
THE DOOR WILL NOT WORK RIGHT IF IT IS NOT PLUMB AND
SQUARE! I don't care what some dumb assed installer tells you -
if it is not plumb and square when you
stand back and look at it - DON'T PAY FOR IT! The tracks on the
inside need to be set to the manufacturer's specifications so that
the door travels up and down smoothly. The tracks that the door
lays in when it is open need to be level.
I have included an explanation of plumb, level and square. It may
bore you and if you understand the terms, feel free to skip the dull
parts.
- Plumb: Plumb is defined as true to a vertical plane. A correctly plumbed object such as a support column takes maximum advantage of gravity, transferring loads directly to the ground.
- Level: Level is defined as true to a horizontal plane.
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- Square: Square is when a plumbed object intersects with a level object they create a 90 degree angle.
Fortunately each of the parameters of plumb, level and square can be easily checked and continuously monitored.
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- Plumb:
There are two tools used to check the plumb of an object:
- Carpenter's level - Always check plumb on adjacent sides.
The longer the level the easier it is to obtain a true plumb reading. A 48 inch level works best when working with columns or posts over 4 feet in length.
When working with a level, close is not acceptable, the bubble in the vial must be dead center.
A new innovation is a level clamp that will actually hold a level against a post, working as a third hand, allowing you to set the plumb of a column or post without having to hold onto the level.
- Plumb bob - Plumb can also be checked with the use of a plumb bob, although using it to set a post or column requires 2 units and is a much more complex exercise. If you are concerned about a post or column shifting during construction, a plumb bob can be attached to a post and allows for a quick verification that plumb is being maintained.
- Level:
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There are three methods to check level.
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- Carpenter's level - using a carpenter's level on a horizontal board is similar to the use on a vertical surface. If the horizontal surface is longer than twice the length of the level, it is wise to check level at both ends and in the middle. Many times a board can be warped or have a crown that is not on the center line.
- Laser level - laser levels have become as common as bubble levels, with prices that are competitive with bubble levels. Depending on the model, they can provide all functions of plumb level and square.
- Water level - a water level is a piece of clear tubing filled with water. Water will automatically find its same level on both ends of a tube. When using a water level it is important that there are no air bubbles in the tube or kinks in the tubing and that both ends of the tubing are open to the air.
- Square:
Most construction projects are rectangular or made up of several adjoining rectangles. If the corners of any frame are not square it is much harder to install joists, sub-flooring, roof rafters or any other adjoining framing.
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To determine if you are working to square measure across the diagonals of a frame, corner to corner.
If the square of rectangular frame is truly square both dimensions will be identical. The actual measured number has no meaning, other than as a match to the opposite diagonal. The measurements should be within 1/32 of an inch of each other.
The measurement can be made to the inside or outside of the frame, as long as the measurement criteria is the same for both diagonals.
To check the square of a corner, when you do not have a rectangle or square to work from you should use the 3-4-5 method.
The numbers 3, 4 and 5 create a perfect 90 degree angle. The units are not important providing all the units are identical. In other words, you can have 3, 4, 5, feet, meters, yards, inches. In the same manner the numbers can be doubled, tripled or quadrupled if you are working with large dimensions ( 6, 8,10 - 9, 12, 15).
It is not necessary that the 90 degree angle that you are wishing to confirm has measurements of 3, 4 and 5.
If someone shows up at your house or business to install a door,
whether a hinge door or an overhead sectional door, and they
do not have a 4 foot level, SEND THEM AWAY! Tell the
business owner to get himself some carpenters or at least
some installers who can read the instructions.
I am not naming names...yet. But I'm gonna get my camera out and
document some of this crap so that every one understands. More
later.
BIRD FARM SOUTH

Oh, I cannot WAIT for you to start naming names! Maybe because I feel EXACTLY as you do regarding the complete and utter crap that somehow qualifies as "Customer Service" these days......or maybe because I'm having one of those "I'm gonna name names" kinda mornings.
Either way, keep up the good work and keep posting!!
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So sad that most people just don't understand that their homes aren't always (rarely) plum and square. Even this blonde Ozarks farm chick knows that.
God bless and have a wonderful day!!!
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